Sent:
April 11, 2005

TALES FROM THE SHACK

Writing this now by candlelight (and the light from my laptop) in the "high density suburb" of Dzivaresekwa, Zimbabwe (just outside the capital...Harare). Arrived here about 5 days ago and am settling in nicely. We are staying with our friend and mbira teacher Medicine Kanengoni (Makadi Medicine!!!). I was enjoying South Africa but must admit I enjoy Zimbabwe more, or perhaps for different reasons. I enjoy being here in DZ (slang for Dzivaresekwa) cause it is closer to village lifestyle than the regular urban life. Smaller living compounds, more dirt roads than paved ones, open cooking fires, sugar cane and roasted corn for sale on the corner, people selling their wares anywhere they can, kids running around, cars that are way past their expiry date but still running and carrying more people than they ever thought possible, people drinking chibuku (local homemade beer) on roadsides, in front of their houses, and of course people blasting their favorite music on sound systems, in this case it is usually sangura music, the music of these townships. Very lively style built upon interweaving guitars, loping bass lines and driving drums and vocals that can put shivers down your spine. Actually most of the day was spent at a local "studio"/rehearsal space just down the street. (Warning!!!!!...from here on in this e-mail will focus on music. But first a little history on Zimbabwe's socio-economic system...just a little mind you).

They just had elections, same ruling party won, country's economy is getting worse, inflation going up (3 yrs ago 1US$= $600 Zim, today $1 US = $13-14,000 Zim..on the black market anyhow) People here are suffering, food and gas shortages, on top of that low rains this year so bad harvest for the rural farmers, I don't know how most people manage. Even those with jobs are finding it difficult. So what can a musician do?? Most guys who want to play music ( especially music using Western instruments) are in a fix cause most none of them own any gear!!!! They have to spend what little money they do have to rent the gear and space to rehearse and perform. That's where I was today. A man named "Principal" (formerly "Teacher") has a 10x12 concrete shack with an asbestos roof crammed with a drumkit (a large part of which was homemade or altered/fixed when something broke such as a drumskin. Using a nylon sack and some rubber cement a new one is made, or a new bass drum pedal welded together from old parts...and drumsticks are locally cut from tree branches..who needs Vic Firth!!??)), 5 large speakers, 2 guitars, a bass, several mics and an old mixing console and tape deck (for demos). Walking up to the compound we could hear the life coming from this tiny shack. Upon entering there are 4 youths playing their hearts out, I have heard the music on tape but live is always different, I can see how this stuff is put together. And it is loud. After some time the "Principal" comes in and gives small suggestions, nods, smiles and leaves and the bumps are smoothed out. But this group's time is up, they must leave so another group come in and polish their music. It got me thinking, these guys can't do this everyday, otherwise they'd be broke. But they are fantastic, guitar players especially. I guess when the clock is ticking you make the most of your time. Anyhow, next group does their thing, though the drummer is a little poor. They hear that I play so now I'm on the drums!!! Now we are all smiling, including the principal. Going home for lunch, we return with our mbiras for jamming. 3 mbiras, the bass and the drums. 5 hours later we are finished after mixing these old, ancient mbira songs with the Principal on the bass and his assistant on the drums. A 10x12 shack never felt so good!!

Next week we go to the the Medicine's ancestral village, I can't wait to see the stars in that sky.

Until next time,

Curtis

(PS...I gave Medicine and his family a copy of a Mopaya CD and they all love it)